The patterns are made by preventing dye from reaching parts of the cloth. Yoruba women in Abeokuta tie it, stitch it or paint it with starch, then plunge it into vats of indigo. When the cloth is dried and the resist removed, white patterns stand out against deep blue. The result is adire, one of West Africa’s most famous textiles.
The name
“Adire” comes from Yoruba words meaning roughly “to tie and dye”. The craft is centred in Abeokuta, the capital of Ogun State, as well as Ibadan, Osogbo and other towns.
Indigo
Traditionally, adire was dyed with indigo from local plants. Dyers prepared the dye in large pots, a skilled and time-consuming process passed down among women.
Techniques
There are several methods. Adire oniko uses tying with raffia or thread to create circles and patterns. Adire alabere uses stitching. Adire eleko uses starch paste painted or stencilled onto the cloth.
Patterns
Patterns have names and meanings, such as Olokun (the goddess of the sea) and Ibadandun (“Ibadan is sweet”). Designs include birds, leaves, spoons, circles and geometric shapes.
A women’s craft
Adire production was historically controlled by women, who dyed and sold the cloth. In Abeokuta, the craft provided income and status.
Itoku market
Itoku market in Abeokuta is one of the best-known places to buy adire. Visitors can see dyers at work.
Decline and revival
In the mid-twentieth century, cheap imported fabrics and synthetic dyes reduced demand for traditional adire. In recent decades, designers have revived it, using adire in modern fashion.
In fashion
Adire is now worn as dresses, shirts, skirts and accessories. Nigerian designers and celebrities have helped make it fashionable again.
Government support
Ogun State has promoted adire as part of its cultural identity, including festivals and calls for people to wear it.
Colours beyond indigo
Modern adire makers use synthetic dyes in many colours, from purple and green to orange, alongside the classic indigo. Some purists prefer natural indigo, but the new colours have widened adire’s appeal.
Buying adire
Visitors should ask whether a piece is hand-dyed, which method was used and how to wash it. Hand-dyed adire may bleed colour at first and should be washed separately.
Adire is made by keeping colour away from the cloth. The women of Abeokuta have spent generations proving that what is left white can be as beautiful as the dye itself.
