In the old trading city of Agadez in Niger, silversmiths sit in small workshops shaping pendants by hand. The designs are ancient. The most famous, the Agadez cross, has a distinctive ring-topped shape that has become a symbol of Tuareg identity. Traditionally, a father gives it to his son with words that are often translated as: “I give you the four corners of the world, because one cannot know where one will die.”
The Tuareg and the cross
The Tuareg are a Berber people of the Sahara and Sahel, living in Niger, Mali, Algeria, Libya and Burkina Faso. Many were historically nomads and traders. Agadez, in northern Niger, was an important stop on trans-Saharan trade routes. Its old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Agadez cross has a ring or loop on top and arms that spread outward, though designs vary. Despite the name, it is not a Christian symbol.
There are many Tuareg crosses, each associated with a different town or region, such as In Gall, Tahoua and Iferouane.
The smiths and their meaning
The crosses are made by inadan, Tuareg artisans who work in metal, leather and wood. Many crosses are made by lost-wax casting. A wax model is surrounded by clay, the wax is melted out and silver is poured in. Interpretations vary. Some see the arms as the four directions, others as a symbol of protection on journeys.
The cross became popular with travellers and fashion designers, and is now sold worldwide. Insecurity in the Sahara reduced tourism to Agadez, hurting the smiths who depended on visitors. Buyers can support artisans by purchasing from Tuareg cooperatives and fair trade sellers.
A living craft and fashion
Young smiths continue to learn the craft from their elders. The inadan are a distinct group within Tuareg society, respected for their skill and knowledge. Their workshops, often family businesses, pass techniques from parents to children. Tuareg smiths also make rings, bracelets, earrings and decorative boxes, and women wear silver jewellery as part of their wealth and identity.
Designers have used Tuareg motifs in modern jewellery collections, sometimes without credit to the original makers. The Agadez cross is small enough to hold in a closed hand. It carries the history of the desert’s trade routes and a blessing for whatever direction the wearer takes.
