The smell arrives first. Green coffee beans are roasted in a flat pan over coals until they crackle and darken, and the host walks around the room so guests can breathe in the smoke. Incense burns nearby. The beans are ground by hand and boiled in a clay pot called a jebena, then poured into small cups from a height. This is the Ethiopian coffee ceremony, a ritual of hospitality that can take more than an hour.
Coffee's homeland and roasting
Ethiopia is widely regarded as the birthplace of coffee. The region of Kaffa is often linked to the plant’s origins. A popular legend tells of Kaldi, a goatherd who noticed his goats became lively after eating coffee berries. The ceremony is often performed by women, with grass and flowers spread on the floor and a small table holding cups.
Green beans are washed and roasted in a pan, and the aroma is shared with guests. The roasted beans are ground with a mortar and pestle.
The jebena and three rounds
The coffee is boiled in a jebena, a clay pot with a long neck, and poured slowly to leave grounds behind. Guests are served three rounds, often called abol, tona and baraka. The third is said to bring blessing. Popcorn, roasted barley or bread is often served with the coffee. The ceremony is a time for conversation, community news and resolving disputes.
Many families hold the ceremony daily, while others reserve it for guests and special occasions. Coffee is one of Ethiopia’s most important exports. Ethiopian restaurants and communities abroad keep the ceremony alive.
Guests, varieties and café culture
Refusing coffee during a ceremony can be seen as impolite, and guests usually stay for at least the first round. The ceremony is a sign of welcome, and taking part is a way of showing respect to the host and the household. Ethiopian coffees from regions such as Sidamo, Yirgacheffe and Harar are prized around the world for their distinct flavours.
In Addis Ababa, modern cafés sit alongside traditional ceremonies, and both are part of daily life. Most of the world drinks coffee in a hurry. In Ethiopia, where the plant is said to have come from, a cup can still take an hour and three rounds of talk.
