The bass notes come from a long wooden lute with three strings. Around it, iron castanets clatter in a steady, hypnotic rhythm. The music goes on for hours, and some listeners enter a trance.
This is Gnawa, one of Morocco’s most distinctive musical traditions, with roots far to the south in sub-Saharan Africa.
Origins
The Gnawa trace their ancestry to people from West Africa who were brought to Morocco, many of them enslaved, over centuries of trans-Saharan trade. They combined their spiritual practices and music with Islam and local traditions.
The tradition dates back at least to the sixteenth century.
The instruments
The central instrument is the guembri, also called sintir, a three-stringed bass lute with a body covered in camel skin. It is played by the maalem, or master musician. The krakebs, large iron castanets, are played by the other members of the group, who also sing and dance.
The lila
Gnawa music is traditionally performed at an all-night ceremony called the lila. The ceremony moves through a series of songs dedicated to spirits and saints, each associated with colours and incense. Participants may enter trance, and the ceremony is believed to have healing power.
Essaouira
The coastal town of Essaouira, once called Mogador, is closely associated with Gnawa. Since the late 1990s, it has hosted the Gnaoua World Music Festival, which brings Gnawa masters together with jazz, rock and world musicians from around the globe. The free festival draws huge crowds every summer.
Fusion
Gnawa has attracted international musicians, from jazz players to rock stars, who have collaborated with Gnawa masters. The deep, looping guembri lines fit naturally with jazz and funk.
UNESCO
In December 2019, UNESCO added Gnawa to its lists of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, recognising it as a set of musical practices, performances and therapeutic rituals.
Maalems
The masters, or maalems, often come from Gnawa families, and knowledge passes from father to son. Respected maalems are recognised across Morocco, and some have become international names through festivals and recordings.
Changing tradition
As Gnawa became popular with tourists and festival audiences, some masters worried that commercial performances would lose the spiritual meaning of the lila. Others see the attention as a way to keep the tradition alive.
A southern sound in the north
Gnawa is a reminder that North Africa and sub-Saharan Africa have always been connected. The rhythm of the krakebs in Essaouira carries the memory of people who crossed the Sahara centuries ago.
