The horses come at full gallop, their riders in flowing robes and turbans, swords raised. Just before reaching the emir, they pull up sharply and salute. Dust rises, drums pound and trumpets blast. The crowd roars. This is the durbar, held in Kano and other northern Nigerian cities during the Sallah festivals, and it is one of the most spectacular sights in West Africa.
Sallah and the horsemen
The durbar takes place during Eid al-Fitr, at the end of Ramadan, and Eid al-Adha. In Hausa, these festivals are called Sallah. After Eid prayers, the emir rides in procession, surrounded by his guards, titleholders and horsemen. This ride is called Hawan Sallah. The tradition has roots in the cavalry of the northern emirates, when horsemen defended cities and paid homage to rulers. The word “durbar” itself came into use during British colonial rule.
Riders come from different districts and groups, each dressed in its own colours. Horses wear elaborate decorations, including quilted cloth and bright tassels.
The salute, music and politics
The high point is the charge, known as jahi, when groups gallop towards the emir and stop before him in salute. Drummers, trumpeters with long kakaki horns and praise singers accompany the procession, praising the emir and nobles. Durbars are also held in Katsina, Zaria, Bida and other emirates, each with its own traditions. The durbar attracts visitors from across Nigeria and abroad, and photographers come to capture its colour.
In some years, durbars have been cancelled or scaled down because of security concerns or political tensions. Disputes over the Kano emirship in recent years have affected Sallah celebrations, showing how closely the durbar is tied to traditional authority.
Heritage, horses and visits
Cultural groups have called for greater support to preserve the tradition and its craftsmanship. Families who keep horses for the durbar spend weeks preparing them, grooming and feeding them well and making or repairing the decorated saddles and cloths. Crowds of women and children line the route, and the day is a major family outing in Kano.
After the procession, families visit relatives and share festive meals. Kano’s walls have long since lost their military purpose. During Sallah, the horsemen still ride as if the city needed defending, and thousands come out to watch.
