On a length of rough, cream-coloured cotton, black figures march across the surface: birds, fish, crocodiles, masked dancers, hunters with spears. The lines are bold and simple, drawn by hand with a knife-like tool dipped in dark dye. This is Korhogo cloth, made by Senufo artists in northern Côte d’Ivoire, around the town of Korhogo. Once linked to ritual and spiritual purposes, it is now sold widely as wall hangings and decorative textiles, and it remains one of the best-known painted cloths of West Africa.
The Senufo and the cloth
The Senufo people live in northern Côte d’Ivoire, southern Mali and western Burkina Faso. They are known for their masks, carvings and textiles. Korhogo is the main town of the Senufo region in Côte d’Ivoire. Nearby villages, especially Fakaha, are known for painted cloth. The cloth is woven by hand in narrow strips of cotton, which are then sewn together to make a larger piece.
The painters use a dye made from fermented mud and plant extracts. When applied, it darkens to black or brown.
Images, ritual and change
Designs include animals, birds, fish, masked figures, hunters and symbols. Some relate to Senufo myths and beliefs. Historically, painted cloths were worn by hunters or members of the Poro society, and some designs were believed to offer protection. In the twentieth century, Korhogo cloth became popular with collectors and tourists, and artists began producing pieces for sale.
Korhogo cloth is related to Mali’s bogolan, or mud cloth, but its designs are typically figurative rather than geometric. Family workshops pass skills from generation to generation. The cloths are used as wall hangings, tablecloths, cushions and clothing.
Buying and heritage
Buyers can find Korhogo cloth in markets in Abidjan and abroad, though quality varies. Many Ivorians see Korhogo cloth as part of national heritage. Artists use metal tools, brushes and sticks to apply the dye, sometimes working freehand without any sketch. Skilled painters produce bold, confident lines quickly. Traditional cloths are mainly cream and dark brown or black, though some modern pieces add other colours for buyers.
A Korhogo cloth begins as plain cotton strips. By the time the painter has finished, the animals on it look ready to walk off the edge.
